Review: The Cavendish

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Topping the list of Marylebone’s latest restaurants, The Cavendish has opened its doors at 35 New Cavendish Street, previously home to Mediterranean pub slash tapas bar Fat of the Land.

Things have certainly changed – with the bar having moved location to the other side of the downstairs area and a complete refurb having taken place, you’d struggle to spot any similarities with The Cavendish’s predecessor.

With a smart 1940’s gentleman’s club style interior, The Cavendish offers a high end dining experience with a kitchen and management team to reflect. Head chef Alonso Lillo Fas’ crisp and simple style comes from training under chef Pablo Montoro at El Bulli. Meanwhile experienced manager Ermanno Dala Valle has done stints at George, Dover Street Arts Club & Morton’s. Ermanno and colleague Andrea Sgamma both specialise in table side cooking – which we were fortunate enough to witness first hand later on in the meal.

The Cavendish has an extensive and impressive selection of alcohols behind the bar whilst the food menu is simple, yet with something to please all. Chef Alonso aims to source the freshest ingredients – and you would hope so too, given that a large part of the menu is the Raw Bar that offers everything from oysters and caviar to ceviche and tartar, followed by Meat and Fish sections that both offer four dishes with a selection of sides to accompany.

We kicked off proceedings with two carpaccio’s – one beetroot and one beef. The presentation was as expected, fitting seamlessly into the white table linen, wood panelling and blue leather that we were surrounded by, whilst the freshness of the food was reflected in the flavours.

The main course beef tartare was prepared for us table side, with us able to provide our preference on just how spicy we wanted things – the result being spot on and complimented by zucchine fritte (fries also an option). I’m always a fan of simple, whole foods and the chargrilled yellowfin tuna steak that I had chosen was just that. Also cooked to perfection, it was flavoursome and served with baby leeks and a salsa verde, along with an extra side of spinach.

Within the area The Cavendish prices itself towards the higher end of the market – expect to pay around £15 for a starter and £25 for a main. However, The Cavendish is my kind of restaurant and one that can actually be hard to find in London – the service and dining experience you would expect from one of the best established restaurants in our city, yet with a menu that is diverse but not overcomplicated.

Information

35 New Cavendish Street
Marylebone
London
W1G 9TR

Nearest Tube: Bond Street

Phone: 0207 487 3030
Website: 35newcavendish.co.uk


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Alex is the founder of digital agency 93digital, the publisher of Marylebone Online.